A Cretan Welcome!

So far on this trip, I've been letting a week or so pass before writing a new post so that I'd be sure to have enough cool/funny/interesting things to write about, but yesterday was such a wonderful, unexpected day that I can't help but share it in [almost] real-time. 

After surviving a pre-dawn 45 minute taxi ride driven by the Athenian Speedy Gonzalez to the airport on dark and barren roads, a 50 minute flight on a half empty Aegean plane, a crawling 30 minute bus ride to the City Center of Chania, another 1 hour jam-packed bus ride to the beach town of Kissamos, a 10 minute desperate walking quest to find anything or anyone with a pulse to ask for directions, and then an uplifting 5 minute ride by a sympathetic, dark-skinned, heavy-set, gray-haired, short and old Gerard Butler look alike in his mini-van.....I finally arrived at the Galina Beach Estate in Kissamos, Crete: Sweaty, cranky, tired, dehydrated and famished. 

After thinking the Estate was a mirage that I somehow stumbled upon in some desert, I walked into a wave of refreshing air conditioning and unexpectedly, the arms of a different dark-skinned, white-haired, Greek gentleman who introduced himself as the "father" of the Estate, Manolis. No, I am not staying with Greek Mafia. This is a family-run hotel (though they referred to it as an "Estate") where they welcome only a limited number of travellers at a time so that they can "get to know their new friends, who then become family." I checked in, met the father's son, Giorgious, who also works there, had some casual, introductory chit-chat and was ready to head upstairs until they whisked me away into the dining room and asked me to sit and relax. 

Uh...really guys? All I want to do is crash in a bed. I have no personality right now! (I didn't say that, obviously, was trying to be open-minded and patient). 

Manolis brought in a tall glass of fresh squeezed orange juice along with 2 slices of some type of cake (pound cake, maybe?). He then brought out an old photo album of his family and their Estate after I casually asked about the history of it. So glad I did! 

This guy is so passionate about what he does and about the life he has built. He and his wife live just upstairs, and they market the Estate as a "home away from home" versus a hotel or apartment complex. Apparently, as a young guy, Manolis spent a hot minute in Manhattan working at a few prominent hotels to gain some experience, but returned to his hometown in Crete when the NYC bustle became too much. He craved the more personal, authentic, and relaxed lifestyle he grew up with in the Greek Islands. He then literally built this place with his brother from the ground-up beginning in 1980, and has since helped it blossom into a 3-story Estate right on the glistening waterfront of the Mediterranean, called Telonio Beach (check out the picture of the album I snapped - a bit blurry but you'll get the gist!). His son, wife, and nephews (and a few cleaning ladies) are the only people that work there. 

After learning that I was travelling alone and just before he had his son escort me upstairs to my room (carrying ALL of my bags, thank goodness), Manolis insisted that I join them for dinner at The Cellar down the road that night. I must have given him a perplexed look.

"The Cellar, the restaurant that Stelios owns," he clarified. 

"Stelios..?" I repeated, still not following. I awkwardly giggled and felt slightly uncomfortable that I had no clue what he was talking about. 

"Yes, the man who drove you here from town. He is my dear friend and owns the restaurant and we will go there tonight and enjoy a food and a drink."

Knowing that I'd have a few hours to sleep before then, I accepted. Fast forward to a refreshed, post-napped-and-showered-bug.... 

I walked with his nephew, also named Giorgious, to the restaurant. I learned that Galini is Greek for serenity and tranquility. Perfect. Exactly what I was looking for! We sat overlooking the glimmering, calm ocean as several stray puppies roamed around our feet, confidently knowing how cute they were and as a result managing to get quite a good amount of leftovers from various tables, including ours (read: from me). I immediately regretted not bringing my camera to dinner. I already felt like the oddball in group and wasn't sure if bringing a giant camera and snapping pictures while people ate was proper etiquette. Darn. Anyways, the family kept slipping between Greek and English so I only partook in the conversations when I could....but it didn't really matter. I enjoyed everyone smiling and laughing, reaching out to me as best they could, and of course, taking in the amazing scenery on the waterfront. The conversation was refreshing for me. They never talked about (at least not in English) money, the economy, or anything materialistic. It felt very genuine and down to earth. They took turns telling lots of jokes (which I didn't understand, but laughed anyway), lots of stories from the past about the hotel and guests, and lots of advice on where I should go and what I should see during my travels. Not one question about my job (or lack thereof), about why I'm not married and do not have kids, or anything like that. I felt so accepted just as I was. One thing I learned was that I don't think I said "no, thank you" correctly in Greek (and/or that Stelios, who clearly understands English, does not take no for answer)... 

"Do you want a starter, some mezethes, and your main dish?" 

"No, thank you. I will have just the main meal." Out comes some type of fish soup, followed by stuffed aubergines and tstasizki. 

"Do you want another glass of wine?" 

"No, thank you. I'm getting a bit sleepy!" Out comes a carafe of white wine. 

"Do you want some dessert?" 

"No, thank you. I'm quite full." Out comes dark chocolate cake with a slice of orange for garnish. 

"Do you want tea or coffee or anything else?" 

"No thanks, I think just the bill." Out comes a mini bottle of "Cretian Water", i.e., Ouzo with shot glasses. Everyone but me jumped in excitement...Kah-lee-nee-tah, Katy :)