Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Is Home Where The Heart Is?


After journeying through eight unique lands and completing a full circle around the globe…
Venturing thousands and thousands of miles via crowded planes, rickety trains, and crazy-ass-midnight-departing busses with drivers high on yaba…
Spending hundreds & hundreds of pristine British pounds, weighty European euros, mysterious Burmese kyat, lofty Swiss francs, unpretentious Thai baht, and at the very end, as a layover-hating, desperately hungry, tired and overall pissy chick…. Japanese yen…
Gazing in awe at the world’s most celebrated, exquisite works of art by the Renaissance masters and Mother Nature herself…
Breathing in the humid breezes of the Mediterranean sea, the refreshing air atop the Swiss Alps, the pungent stench of an open air fish market in Yangon, and the damp aura in the heart of the Northwest Thai bush…

Experiencing invaluable, life-altering memories with those who have nothing and everything at the same time, and those who are wounded yet resilient…
I am home.
Or am I?
By now I am more or less recovered and time-adjusted after a 30+ hour ride back to JFK from Chiang Mai, an exhausting voyage where I felt full of both anticipation and distress the whole time and hence unable to sleep. With my seatbelt securely fastened, my tray table locked and all electronic devices shut off, the jumbo jet descended back into a world that was simultaneously comforting yet somehow alien. A familiar awe overcame me as I saw the coast come closer and closer and finally the majestic buildings that scrape the clear azure sky above. I watched as the white wake streams behind the yachts cut through the water of the Long Island Sound. I obviously couldn’t see this closely, but could imagine the salmon-colored Lacoste polo’s and whale printed shorts worn by the sun-tanned business men aboard, drinking ice cold Budweisers without a care in the world other than the performance of their stocks. To come from deep in the Southeast Asian jungle witnessing daily hardship amongst innocent children to the most famous concrete one in the world, brimming with wealth and opportunity, has been a bit of an adjustment. Obviously it’s not that hard to climb into a big, soft bed with clean sheets, drive around in my newly-leased Honda Accord, and be able to have internet access at literally any time, anywhere, but it all just feels a bit different for me now. I can’t look at anything material without mentally calculating how much that one thing would make a difference to so many people overseas.
A door has been opened in my heart and my soul and my perspective has been forever altered on what truly matters in life…yes, sounds philosophical and cliché but I can’t lie. I think anyone else who tagged along with me would likely feel the same. My mind’s eye will always hold dear to me the adorable kids as they excitedly grasped the coloring books and crayons I gave to them upon my last visit to the Orphanage in Mae Sariang. I also brought some medicine and clothing given to me by a local blood donation center, which was extremely generous of them. All very much appreciated and will go a VERY long way. I only wish I could have done more.
When I first arrived this time, of course after bouncing around the old jeep for a couple hours, I went directly into the youngest kids’ dorms to say hello to some of the children I had bonded with initially. Many of them were sleeping; others were scattered about the camp, splashing around in the puddles. Except for Emu, a gorgeous tiny 6-year-old Karen child, reed-thin with pin straight black hair and striking eyes. She was feeding a bottle to a teeny tiny baby all on her own on one of those wooden bunk beds. Nurturing and wise beyond her years at only 6 years old, you could see the love and compassion exude from her as she cared for her baby “sister”. I was happy to allow her to be a carefree child again, if only for a few moments, by giving her some of her own coloring books and taking over the care of the infant. I later learned after chatting in broken English and Thai with one of the teenagers there that the infant, 7 weeks old, had a brain deformity (I don’t know details of what kind) and that they named her “Beauty.”  I had gotten pretty frustrated with the language barrier by now (even though I’ve been trying to learn Thai, I haven’t absorbed as much of this challenging language to really communicate effectively other than basic conversation…) because I desperately wanted to sit down and chat with the caretakers of the Orphanage as well as the older kids to perhaps hear the stories and where they specifically came from, but alas, I was unable to do so. Maybe next time (I’m trying my best to keep up what I’ve learned and expand my Thai as I am figuring out my next move…)


I’m beholden to have had this opportunity to gaze directly into the eyes of an innocent, budding child and see nothing but a deep yearning for love and affection. It was in those types of moments that I silently berated myself for ever worrying about the trivial things that I used to…all my good ol’ First World problems. Anyway, I left my heart with them and truly will miss them…but I do know I have not finished my work there specifically, nor in the general arena of humanitarian work. I would have taken them all home with me, especially that little Emu, but since all the kids are from Burma and are not Thai nationals, they are ineligible for adoption (FYI, only Burmese citizens are allowed to adopt Burmese children).
Driving back through the magnificent, succulent green jungle as a sea of raindrops fell on the thick, impermeable trees, I could almost hear the disturbing whispers of the inexplicable horrors and tragedies that was occurring only miles from there across the border in Burma.  The dichotomy of the beauty and the calamity was simply too much to get my head around.  I’ve become captivated and unnerved by the situation that the various ethnic minority groups along the Burmese borders still have to endure at the hands of their own government’s military. The specific group that I am determined to help are the Karen, who have been involved in a Civil War with the government for over 50 years and are fighting for the creation of a Karen homeland state within a Federal Union. This unique culture continues to desperately survive despite the continued strife they must endure…I’m talking heinous things like burning of villages, rape, torture, murders, sexual abuse…all of the above. Yes, this shit still happens today. I had the opportunity to become involved in an agriculture project within an IDP camp aimed at teaching the Karen farmers alternative and more effective methodologies as well as crop variety to improve nutrition amongst the camp. That project is still in the process of taking off, slightly delayed due to the safety and security risks of the volunteers.

So here I am, a world away from all that in my comfortable little Fairfield County bubble, typing away on my iMac and sipping on ice-cold diet ginger ale. What a life-changing whirlwind this has been…and to be honest, the journey has just begun. In my first post, I wrote, “I want to see new things, new places, new people…and just experience a new perspective of this crazy, beautiful world.” Well, I can check that box. But I’m not done. This is only the beginning…
Strange is our journey here on Earth. Each of us comes for a short visit, not knowing why, yet sometimes seeming to divine a purpose. From the standpoint of daily life, however, there is one thing we do know: that man is here for the sake of other men.
 - Albert Einstein


Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Safe Haven...

Time continues to fly over here in Asia and I can honestly say that each and every day I spend exploring this part of the world gets even more interesting and rewarding. This past week, I was lucky enough to be invited to spend some time at a Karen Orphanage on the Thai-Burmese border. What an experience. The intent, of course, was to go help out the kids however and wherever I could and to see what needs they might have in the long term, but the warm smiles and palpable hugs they extended to me by the vivacious, sweet children made me feel like the truly lucky one. 
 
To get to the Orphanage from Chiang Mai, you must first hop on a steamy, rickety old bus for about 4-5 hours (the full duration of the trip depends solely on the driver's haste and discretion in terms of toilet breaks...) to a town near Mae Sot. When you finally arrive and you gain feeling back in your legs, you must get a hold of a sturdy off-road-worthy truck or jeep and a fearless, experienced driver capable of navigating through sheets of heavy rain, deep, muddy potholes and ridiculously steep, windy dirt roads in the heart of the northwest Thai jungle (think Avatar-style). Not really an easy task nor for the faint of heart. After about 2 hours into the bumpy drive, you'll go through a Thai-Karen IDP Camp, where petite, colorfully-clad, brown-skinned elderly women carrying baskets of freshly picked bright green chilies nearly the size of them will walk the dirt roads, slowly making their way back to their village. Out of respect for these hard-working and admirable people, we pulled over to give a few of them a lift and some fresh bottled water and were happy to be able to cut out a few kilometers of their arduous trek in the pouring rain after a long day working in the fields. As they sat gracefully bouncing on the back of our jeep, I turned back and marveled in wonderment and admiration at their intricately furrowed eyes, perhaps representative of years of onerous navigation through a difficult life...they passively yet confidently exuded a certain wisdom and experience and I realized I'd probably never be be able to fully wrap my brain around what those eyes had been exposed to and where those slender yet able-bodied women had been.
 

Continuing on past the camp, the road gets increasingly muddier and trickier to navigate, especially when the ferocious rainfall is at its strongest. I held my breath and closed my eyes several times hoping we would get there soon. Luckily, we made our way down to the other side of the dense mountain where the quaint orphanage, a collection of modest little block houses conveniently protected by the surrounding trees and brimming with love on very low-lying, wet land. Upon my arrival, I was greeted by a young man, Nikhom, who I later learned was raised there as an orphan and now has become one of the few regular caretakers there. He showed me around and we chatted via broken English and elaborate hand gestures, wading calf-deep through the muddy, flooded grounds (the flooding situation is a huge concern there and I'm currently trying to raise some funds with a friend here to help out with potential infrastructure improvement).  I then wandered off and started snapping some shots of two precious little boys waving and pointing at the random white girl roaming around in the rain with a big fat camera. Their simple, genuine smiles and innocent giggles completely stole my heart. I walked into the house they were waving from and was overwhelmed to see a handful of rambunctious children, perhaps ages 2 - 6, playing alongside their narrow wooden bunk beds and before I knew it, I had a darling little girl clinging to my leg whilst another sat me down with an intense mission to Barbie me up with elaborate 80's-style make up. To see how full of love these little guys were was just so touching...I can hardly find the words to describe it. And to know that they have had to endure some pretty horrible situations and have senselessly lost their parents is simply heart-wrenching.  



 
I also had the chance to spend some time with the admirable Karen woman who runs the orphanage and has been doing so for over 20 years, Tasanee. She unfortunately lost her father at quite a young age and then had to experience the loss of her own children's father, a village leader who was ruthlessly murdered many years ago, and has since harnessed her sorrow into creating and maintaining this loving solace for these innocent children. Truly commendable. 

I will be returning to the Orphanage next week to bring some much needed supplies and am extremely excited. If anyone is reading this and is interested in any type of donation - please do not hesitate to reach out. A small amount will go a very, very long way.